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PTSideshow
05-08-2010, 12:43 AM
Ventilator for fumes welding part one
Here is a ventilator 8"dia that I picked at Harbor Freight #97762 8" or 12"Ventilator #97852
air flow low 1380 CFM/8" 2540 CFM/12"
air flow high 1590 CFM/8" 2930 CFM/12"
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9689.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9691.jpg
They have a duct that goes on it. Costs half as much as the ventilator did.

I'm going to look for adapters for duct work to mount on the input/output and a permanent dump vent outside the shop
runs good and it is quite for an air handler. It is a two position on/off/on switch.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9742.jpg
Adapting the intake hood and the duct that HF sells for it. First off I went to the Home Despot for the outlet box, the transition piece form round ducting to the rectangular register box in the wall for heating and AC when you have central forced air.
It is junk, it is amazing how thin they can make something and still make it work sort of. The round neck duct piece is just snap fit over start of the box. It popped off bouncing on the seat of the truck on the way home.
First thing was to drill and pop rivet it on permanently.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9744.jpg
This is the box, it is very sharp at all edges. There is no over locking seams/Pittsburgh seams type seams. A real one from the local H/AC supplier was 4 times as much as the HD one.

PTSideshow
05-08-2010, 12:44 AM
Part 2

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9743.jpg
This is Z channel/strip normally used for connecting rectangular duct and hanging them from the joists.
I placed it and popped riveted it on all 4 edges to stiffen the box and remove a lot of the sharp edge areas. Duct Taped all around for added safety. After putting the vinyl fan ducting in the inlet side of the box. I duct taped it to the transition piece, to keep it place.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9740.jpg
To attach it to the ventilator housing, it has an internal strap that goes thru a spring buckle for easy on and off.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Ventilator/DSCF9745.jpg
This is the completed unit so far, Haven't decided where the exhaust vent hood is going to go through the wall. and what type of ducting I want to use. The ducting for this unit is 15 feet extended. I think that with about 8 feet from the discharge side to the exhaust outlet would cover any place in my shop that I would be welding in.

All most forgot, Tek Supply, Clarke, Northern and a number of auto parts suppliers all are selling a version of this ventilator, both in the 8" and 12" versions. Other than the paint, brand, decal colors, and 20 or so RPMs are the only differences I can see.

pkastagehand
05-12-2010, 03:43 PM
Not to take anything away from what you're doing because anything that moves poisonous air away from lungs is good, but...

I would keep that intake away from slag/sparks, etc. That may mean hanging it above where you're welding or keeping it fairly far away (which may reduce its usefulness).

When we did a scenic shop renovation of our theatre in the mid 90s the HVAC guys were the ones that did the welding exhaust. They used a flex hose that was shiny/silvery on the surface. I'm not sure of the composition but it did not last long before it was full of little holes and then eventually it was bad enough that it just started falling apart there were so many holes in it. They may have thought the metallic looking surface would protect it but it did not. Straight vinyl or whatever you have there may fare better or worse. Time will tell.

A fairly fine mesh screen at the intake may stop all but the smallest stuff from getting through which may help lengthen the life.

Paul

PTSideshow
05-12-2010, 10:55 PM
In addition to the screen spark stopper as you mentioned, if I use it for other processes. It is mostly going to be used for winter time Learning to TIG, No sparks, according to theory!. And for removing exhaust from the small engines of the 2/4/nitro cycles when The shop is closed up them snow blowers work well 3 seasons of the year'
The silver duct is marginally fire rated for H V &cooling installs, but as you say it doesn't take much for the mylar to disappear!

Jan-Eric Nystrom
05-13-2010, 06:12 AM
It is mostly going to be used for winter time Learning to TIG, No sparks, according to theory!

Very little sparks... As soon as you do what you're supposed not to, i.e. touching the electrode to the bead, you do get a spark or two. Or, if there's rust on the steel, you get a bit more...

But it's nothing like MIG or stick welding.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByeXYs9UOtU

Look at this video; showing a friend's 10-year old kid running my 0-6-0, but close to the end, you can see me TIGging, getting a couple of sparks. I'm not perfect (yet... ;) )

PTSideshow
05-13-2010, 10:02 AM
:D we seem to be always learning !